Fast, flavorful, spiritual, chaotic. Kathmandu squeezes centuries into a few dusty lanes. Here’s a go-for-broke, practical 48-hour plan that hits the temples, tastes, markets, views and a little local life so you leave feeling like you actually met the city.
Quick facts
- Top must-see sites: Boudhanath, Pashupatinath, Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) and the Durbar Squares — these are the valley’s headline UNESCO / heritage attractions.
- Best months for clear skies and easy walking: October–March (post-monsoon, autumn and winter are ideal).
- Safety note: Nepal can have heavy seasonal rains and occasional political protests; check local news/embassy notices before travel and avoid large gatherings if unrest is reported.
Day 1 — Old city, rooftop sunsets & Thamel vibes
Morning — Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple)
Start early (cooler, fewer people). Climb the steps above Kathmandu for sweeping valley views, prayer wheels, and cheeky monkeys. Respect the monks and rituals — remove shoes where asked, don’t pose in front of people doing puja.
Late morning — Kathmandu Durbar Square + Basantapur
Walk or short taxi to Durbar Square. Explore the palaces, carved woodwork and tiny temples. Wander the narrow lanes radiating out to find tea shops, classical courtyards and souvenir stalls. (Note: parts of the squares were rebuilt after the 2015 earthquakes, but the historic feel remains.)
Lunch — Try a Nepali thali
Find a local thakali or momo spot — filling, cheap, and the perfect energy reset. If you want a rooftop with a view, many cafes in Thamel serve both Nepali and international dishes. For curated picks, popular Thamel restaurants include places readers often recommend (rooftop cafés, fusion spots and solid Nepali kitchens).
Afternoon — Garden of Dreams + stroll
Head to the calm Garden of Dreams for a relaxed hour — good coffee, shady lawns and a restful contrast to the city bustle.
Sunset — Rooftop bar or hotel terrace
Kathmandu sunsets are made for rooftops. Sip something cold while the valley turns gold.
Evening — Thamel for dinner & live music
Thamel is Kathmandu’s tourist hub: neon signs, shops, travel desks and nightlife. Try a Nepali set meal or international options (pizza, Tibetan, fusion). After dinner, check a small live-music pub or rooftop lounge.
Day 2 — Stupas, sacred river & an ancient city
Early morning — Boudhanath Stupa
Head east to Boudhanath at sunrise: circumambulate the huge white dome, listen to the monks’ chants and feel the slow prayer pace. It’s one of the most meditative spots in the valley. Boudha is especially lively early.
Mid-morning — Pashupatinath Temple
A short drive from Boudha, Pashupatinath is the major Hindu temple complex on the Bagmati River. From the viewing ghats, you can observe cremation ceremonies and traditional rites — it’s deeply spiritual, so dress respectfully and follow rules (no photography inside restricted zones).
Lunch — Tibetan/Nepalese food near Boudha
The Boudha area has great Tibetan and Newari eateries — try thenthuk, thukpa, or Tibetan-style momo.
Afternoon — Pick one: Patan or Bhaktapur (classic half-day trip)
- Patan (Lalitpur) — famous for art, Patan Durbar Square and the Patan Museum (crafts and metalwork).
- Bhaktapur — more preserved medieval streets, pottery square, and the famous juju dhau (buffalo curd).
Either is an easy 30–60 min drive and worth the time if you want authentic old-city charm.
Late afternoon — Shopping & chai
Back to Thamel/Asan for last-minute souvenirs: pashmina shops, handicrafts, metal statues, Tibetan singing bowls, and spice/tea shops. Asan Bazaar is great for a more local market feel.
Evening — Final dinner
Finish with one special meal: a cosy Nepali restaurant, modern fusion spot, or a French/Italian fine-dining option if you want to splurge. (Top restaurants and rooftop terraces cluster around Thamel, Jhamsikhel, and Lazimpat.)
Where to eat (quick shortlist)
- Rooftop cafés & fusion spots in Thamel (great for views + tourists).
- Local thakali & momo joints for authentic Nepali meals.
- Boudhanath area for Tibetan food.
- Fine dining options exist in Lazimpat/Soaltee if celebrating.
Practical tips & logistics
- Transport: Short routes — tuk-tuks and metered taxis are common. For longer day-trips, ask your hotel to arrange a car/driver for the day. Always agree on the fare before you go or use a meter/app if available.
- Money: Cash (NPR) is widely used; cards are accepted at bigger hotels/restaurants, but bring cash for markets and small stalls.
- Sim & data: You can buy tourist SIMs at the airport or city shops; you require ID/passport for registration.
- Dress & etiquette: Modest dress around temples (shoulders/knees covered). Remove shoes when entering inner temple areas. Ask before photographing people in prayer.
- Altitude & health: Kathmandu sits at ~1,400 m — easy for most, but drink bottled water if you’re sensitive.
- Time to visit: Early mornings are best for temples (lighter crowds + atmosphere). Late afternoon is good for Durbar Squares and streetscapes.
If you have extra time or want to swap
- Nagarkot sunrise — 1–1.5 hours from Kathmandu for Himalayan sunrise (easy overnight option).
- Day hikes — short trails around Shivapuri or Chandragiri for fresh air and views.
- Cultural experiences — family homestays, cooking classes or a guided walking food tour.
Final note
Kathmandu is intoxicatingly rich in culture — but it’s also an active city with unpredictable weather and the occasional political demonstration. Keep an eye on local news, avoid large crowds if there are protests, and treat sacred sites with respect. For real-time safety, check your embassy or local news before setting out.
